Most visitors to Zürich make a beeline for the Altstadt (Old Town), and rightly so. Its cobblestone streets and medieval guildhalls are stunning. But if you stop there, you’re missing half the story.
Just a few minutes by train from the polished center lies Zürich-West (District 5). Formerly an industrial wasteland of factories and shipyards, this neighborhood has undergone a massive transformation over the last two decades. Today, it is the city’s creative heartbeat – a raw, vibrant district where culture, design, gastronomy, and nightlife collide amidst repurposed brick buildings and modern architecture.
If you want to see where locals go to escape the tourist crowds, shop for sustainable design, or enjoy an after-work craft beer in an urban garden, this walking guide is for you. Lacing up your comfortable shoes and get ready to explore the edgier side of Swiss perfection.
Getting Started: The Gateway to the West
The easiest starting point for your walking tour is the Hardbrücke train station. It’s a major hub connected to the main station (Zürich HB) by a mere 3-minute train ride.
Before you head out, make sure your logistics are sorted. While Zürich-West is very walkable, getting there and hopping on trams if your feet get tired is easier if you grab a Zürich Card for free unlimited transport throughout the city zones.
Once you arrive at Hardbrücke, take the exit towards “Escher-Wyss-Platz” and step out into the urban landscape. You are now immediately immersed in the contrast between the high-speed transit infrastructure and the developing cultural spaces below.
The Self-Guided Route: Industrial Chic & Creative Vibes
Follow this route to hit the essential highlights of District 5.
1. Im Viadukt: Shopping Under the Arches
From Hardbrücke, walk a short distance towards the Limmat River until you see a massive stone railway bridge cutting through the neighborhood. This is the Viadukt.
Built in 1894, the space beneath these arches was previously used for storage. Today, it is a 500-meter-long shopping mile. The “Viaduktbögen” (Viaduct Arches) house dozens of independent boutiques selling everything from Swiss fashion design and vintage furniture to high-end bicycles.
The highlight here is the Markthalle (Market Hall). It’s the perfect place to grab a coffee and a pastry to fuel your walk. Local farmers, butchers, and cheesemongers sell their produce here. It’s a fantastic spot to assemble a gourmet picnic for our next stop.
2. Josefwiese: The Neighborhood’s Green Lung
Just behind the Viadukt lies the Josefwiese. This expansive park is the communal backyard for the residents of District 5. On sunny days, it is packed with locals playing Pétanque, families grilling sausages on the public barbecues, and friends lounging on the grass.
It’s a great spot to pause, soak in the local atmosphere, and eat the treats you just bought at the Markthalle. The juxtaposition of the green space against the industrial backdrop of the Viadukt and nearby chimneys is quintessentially Zürich-West.
3. The FREITAG Tower & Frau Gerolds Garten
Leaving the park, head back towards Hardbrücke station. You won’t miss your next landmark; it’s visible from almost everywhere in the district.
Rise 26 meters into the air is the FREITAG Flagship Store, a tower constructed from 19 stacked, recycled shipping containers. FREITAG is a famous Zurich brand known for making messenger bags out of used truck tarpaulins. The store itself is an architectural statement on sustainability. Definitely climb to the observation deck at the top for a panoramic, gritty view over the train tracks and the developing city.
Directly at the foot of the FREITAG tower is Frau Gerolds Garten (Check reviews on TripAdvisor HERE). This is perhaps the most beloved spot in Zürich-West. It is a sprawling, colorful urban garden and open-air restaurant built from shipping containers, wooden terraces, and vegetable patches.
In the summer, it’s a buzzing hive of activity where you can grab a beer, a burger, or some gelato and sit among the herbs and flowers. In winter, it transforms into a cozy fondue chalet. It is the perfect place to end your walking tour as the sun sets and the area transitions into its lively nightlife phase.
Where to Stay in District 5
If you love the raw energy of this neighborhood and want to avoid the quieter, tourist-heavy Old Town for your accommodation, stay right here.
For a modern, comfortable, and reliable option right near the start of this walking route, the ibis Hotel Zürich West places you right in the heart of the action, steps from the tram lines that connect you to the rest of the city.
Practical Tips for Exploring the West
Timing is Key: The area is very quiet in the mornings. The shops in the Viadukt usually open around 11:00 AM. The best time to explore is late afternoon, transitioning into the evening when the bars and restaurants at Frau Gerolds Garten come alive.
Stay Connected: This part of town is constantly changing, and you’ll want access to maps to find hidden street art or check opening times for pop-up shops. To avoid expensive roaming charges, I recommend downloading Yesim eSim before you arrive for instant data access.
Explore Further: If you still have energy, continue walking past Escher-Wyss-Platz along the Limmat river to witness the trendy “Badi” (river swimming pools) culture in the summer.
Zürich-West is proof that the city is much more than just banking and old churches. It’s a place of reinvention, creativity, and urban charm that provides a refreshing contrast to the classic Swiss postcard views.
