Graubünden: Switzerland’s Largest and Most Diverse Canton

Graubünden (Grisons in French, Grigioni in Italian, Grischun in Romansh) sprawls across southeastern Switzerland as the country’s largest canton, encompassing such remarkable diversity that visiting different valleys feels like traveling between separate countries. Where else can you encounter three official languages within a single canton, traverse from Germanic villages to Italian-influenced valleys via Romansh-speaking communities found nowhere else on Earth, ride two of the world’s most scenic railways through dramatically different landscapes, explore Switzerland’s only national park, experience ultra-luxury St. Moritz alongside remote valleys largely unknown to international tourists, and discover Alpine beauty ranging from gentle Engadin meadows to dramatic Rhine gorges?

This vast canton (7,105 square kilometers – larger than many European countries) defies simple categorization. St. Moritz embodies exclusive luxury and jet-set glamour. The Engadin valley showcases expansive high-altitude landscapes with distinctive sgraffito-decorated houses. The Surselva region preserves Romansh language and culture in traditional farming communities. Italian-speaking valleys like Poschiavo and Bregaglia bring Mediterranean influences to Alpine settings. And throughout, the canton maintains a fierce independence reflected in its motto “Libera et fœderata” (Free and Federated).

This comprehensive guide will help you navigate Graubünden’s complexity, from choosing between its diverse valleys to understanding its linguistic geography, from riding famous scenic railways to discovering villages tourists never reach, from St. Moritz’s luxury to budget-friendly authentic experiences, providing honest insights into what makes Switzerland’s most diverse canton rewarding for travelers willing to look beyond its world-famous resort town.

Understanding Graubünden: Geography and Identity

The Regional Character

Graubünden’s identity centers on diversity and independence. The canton comprises 150 valleys, over 600 lakes, and dramatic variations in culture, language, and landscape within its borders. No single valley or town represents Graubünden – the canton’s character emerges from this variety and the strong local identities that have developed in relative isolation over centuries.

The three-language reality isn’t mere administrative detail but reflects genuine cultural diversity. German speakers dominate northern and western Graubünden (about 75%), Romansh speakers maintain their ancient language in central valleys (about 15%, though declining), and Italian speakers inhabit southern valleys (about 10%). These aren’t just different languages but distinct cultural identities with separate traditions, architecture, cuisine, and even different Swiss characteristics.

Graubünden’s historical independence as the Free State of the Three Leagues (until joining Switzerland in 1803) fostered strong local identity that persists today. Villages maintain remarkable autonomy, valleys preserve distinct characters, and the canton resists homogenization. This independence combined with geographic isolation created the conditions preserving Romansh language and allowing diverse cultures to coexist within Swiss federation.

Geographic Scope and Organization

Canton: Graubünden (Grisons/Grigioni/Grischun) Area: 7,105 square kilometers (largest Swiss canton, 17% of Switzerland’s total area) Population: About 200,000 (least densely populated canton) Languages: German (68%), Romansh (14%), Italian (10%), multilingual (8%) Capital: Chur (German-speaking)

Major Regions:

• Engadin: Long high-altitude valley, St. Moritz, lakes, Romansh influence
• Surselva: Rhine source region, Romansh stronghold, traditional culture
• Prättigau and Davos: Northern valleys, Davos resort, Germanic character
• Albula and Bergün: Central valleys, Romansh villages, railway routes
• Val Poschiavo and Bregaglia: Southern Italian-influenced valleys
• Mesolcina and Calanca: Southernmost Italian-speaking valleys
• Rhine Valley: Northern border region, connecting to Austria

Major Mountain Passes:

• Julier Pass: Connects Engadin to northern Graubünden
• Bernina Pass: Links Engadin to Val Poschiavo and Italy
• Albula Pass: Historic route, railway tunnel parallel
• San Bernardino Pass: Southern route toward Ticino
• Flüela Pass: Davos to Engadin connection

Key Geographic Features:

• Swiss National Park: Switzerland’s only national park, southeastern corner
• Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta): Dramatic canyon carved by Rhine
• Numerous Alpine Lakes: Including St. Moritz lakes, Silsersee, Silvaplanasee
• High Alpine Peaks: Piz Bernina (4,049m – only 4,000m peak in Eastern Alps)

Climate and Natural Setting

Diverse Microclimates: Valley orientation and elevation create varied conditions Engadin Character: High-altitude valley enjoys exceptional sunshine (much like Valais) Northern Valleys: More typical Alpine weather, heavier precipitation Southern Valleys: Mediterranean influences, milder conditions General Pattern: Continental climate, cold winters, warm summers, significant day-night temperature variations

Chur: Ancient Capital and Regional Gateway

Chur Overview

Chur claims to be Switzerland’s oldest city (over 5,000 years of continuous settlement), serving as Graubünden’s capital and primary transportation hub. While often overlooked by tourists rushing to St. Moritz or scenic railways, Chur offers authentic regional character and practical advantages as exploration base.

Population: About 37,000 Character: Historic old town, university city, transportation junction, working capital rather than tourist destination Significance: Regional shopping center, cultural hub, gateway to all Graubünden valleys Languages: Primarily German, but multilingual due to cantonal capital role

Reality Check: Chur isn’t a major tourist destination, but provides authentic Graubünden urban experience, excellent transportation connections, and more affordable accommodation than famous resort areas.

Chur Attractions

Old Town (Altstadt) Compact medieval center with narrow lanes, painted buildings, cathedral, and authentic character.

Cathedral: Impressive medieval structure, blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles Episcopal Court: Historic center with bishop’s palace and related buildings Streets and Squares: Atmospheric lanes, mixture of shops and residences, working town feel

Assessment: Pleasant but not spectacular, rewards leisurely exploration more than rushed sightseek, authentic urban character valuable for understanding Graubünden.

Via Mala Gorge (nearby) Dramatic gorge carved by Hinterrhein river, accessible via walkways and bridges.

Access: Short drive from Chur, organized tours available Experience: Narrow canyon with walkways, historical trade route, impressive geology Worth: Good half-day excursion, dramatic natural scenery, lesser-known attraction

Chur as Regional Base

Transportation Hub: All Graubünden railways and buses connect through Chur, making it ideal for day trips throughout canton Affordability: Significantly cheaper accommodation and dining than resort areas Authenticity: Real city life, not tourist-oriented atmosphere Strategic Value: Central position enables exploring multiple valleys efficiently

Best For: Independent travelers, budget-conscious visitors, those wanting authentic Graubünden experience, exploring multiple valleys from single base.

The Engadin: High-Altitude Glamour and Romansh Traditions

Engadin Overview

The Engadin represents one of Europe’s highest inhabited valleys (over 1,600m), stretching from Maloja Pass to Austrian border along Inn River. This long, wide valley creates distinctive landscape – expansive meadows, numerous lakes, exceptional sunshine, and Romansh cultural heritage combined with international resort development.

Division: Upper Engadin (St. Moritz region) and Lower Engadin (more traditional) Character: Upper Engadin: resort luxury, international crowds, dramatic lakes; Lower Engadin: traditional villages, Romansh culture, authentic character Distinctive Architecture: Sgraffito decoration (scratched plaster patterns) on traditional Engadin houses Language: Romansh (Vallader dialect in Lower Engadin, Puter in Upper)

Understanding the Engadin Paradox

Upper and Lower Engadin present dramatically different characters despite geographic continuity:

Upper Engadin: St. Moritz glamour, luxury hotels, international tourism, higher prices, cosmopolitan atmosphere, winter sports focus Lower Engadin: Traditional Romansh villages, authentic culture, lower tourist numbers, moderate prices, cultural preservation, quieter atmosphere

This division means “visiting the Engadin” requires specifying which section – experiences differ dramatically.

St. Moritz: Alpine Luxury and Winter Sports Prestige

St. Moritz Overview

St. Moritz epitomizes exclusive Alpine luxury – hosting Winter Olympics twice (1928, 1948), attracting international jet-set crowds, maintaining standards that make even other Swiss luxury resorts seem modest, and cultivating reputation as ultimate Alpine destination for those seeking prestige alongside mountain beauty.

Population: About 5,200 permanent residents Elevation: 1,856 meters Character: Ultra-luxury, international clientele, sophisticated infrastructure, prestigious winter sports, year-round resort Reality: Extremely expensive, self-consciously exclusive, genuine quality but prices reflect reputation

St. Moritz Villages: St. Moritz Dorf (upper town, historic center), St. Moritz Bad (lakeside, spa facilities), Suvretta (residential luxury)

St. Moritz Attractions and Activities

Lakes (Lej da San Murezzan and others) Multiple Alpine lakes provide summer recreation and winter sports (frozen lake activities, including horse racing and polo on ice).

Activities: Swimming (summer), ice sports (winter), lakeside walking year-round Beauty: Turquoise waters surrounded by mountains, larch forests, classic Engadin scenery Access: Easy walking from town center, public beaches and private hotel accesses

Muottas Muragl Funicular to panoramic viewpoint offering spectacular Upper Engadin overview.

Elevation: 2,453m Experience: Sunrise and sunset trips popular, restaurant with views, hiking access Photography: Exceptional panoramas of lakes and valley, classic Engadin vistas Value: One of region’s best viewpoints, reasonable pricing by St. Moritz standards

Diavolezza and Piz Lagalb Cable cars accessing high-altitude skiing and Bernina massif views.

Diavolezza: 2,978m, spectacular glacier and peak panoramas, sunrise trips famous Piz Lagalb: 2,959m, alternative perspective, less crowded Summer: Hiking access, glacier tours, mountain dining Winter: Excellent skiing, high-altitude powder snow

Segantini Museum Museum dedicated to painter Giovanni Segantini, showcasing Engadin-inspired Alpine paintings.

Content: Segantini’s Alpine and mountain life paintings, beautiful light and landscape work Building: Distinctive domed structure designed to showcase specific large painting Appeal: Art enthusiasts, understanding Engadin’s artistic inspiration, cultural alternative to outdoor activities

St. Moritz Winter Sports

Skiing: Multiple interconnected areas, varied terrain, reliable snow conditions due to altitude Alternative Winter Sports: Cross-country skiing (famous marathon), ice cricket, curling, ice racing, polo on frozen lake Prestige Events: White Turf horse racing, Snow Polo World Cup, various sporting competitions Infrastructure: World-class facilities, professional instruction, equipment rentals throughout

Reality Check: Excellent facilities and snow conditions, but extremely expensive, crowds during peak season, social scene as important as actual skiing for many visitors.

St. Moritz Practical Considerations

Cost Reality: Switzerland’s most expensive resort, rivaling world’s priciest destinations When Worth It: If luxury matters, winter sports prestige appeals, or experiencing ultimate Alpine luxury resort is priority Alternatives: Nearby villages (Pontresina, Celerina, Silvaplana) offer Engadin access at lower prices Best Value: Visit for day trip from elsewhere, experience environment without accommodation costs

Pontresina: St. Moritz’s Accessible Alternative

Pontresina Overview

Pontresina sits just 6 km from St. Moritz, offering similar Engadin access, dramatic mountain scenery, and quality infrastructure at significantly more accessible prices with more authentic Alpine atmosphere.

Population: About 2,100 Elevation: 1,805 meters Character: Traditional mountain resort, mountaineering heritage, family-friendly, more Swiss than international Advantages: Lower prices than St. Moritz, authentic mountain town character, excellent hiking and climbing access

Why Choose Pontresina

Compared to St. Moritz:

• Significantly more affordable (accommodation, dining, overall)
• More authentic Alpine village atmosphere
• Less pretentious, more welcoming to average tourists
• Excellent mountaineering tradition and infrastructure
• Direct access to Bernina massif and hiking
• Easy connections to St. Moritz for specific visits

What Pontresina Lacks: St. Moritz’s luxury hotels, international prestige, extensive nightlife, ultra-high-end shopping, frozen lake events.

Best For: Mountaineers and serious hikers, families seeking quality without extreme prices, those wanting Engadin access without St. Moritz costs, authentic Alpine experience.

Pontresina Activities

Mountaineering: Gateway to Bernina peaks including Piz Palü, mountain guide services, Alpine school Hiking: Extensive trail networks, various difficulty levels, spectacular high-altitude routes Skiing: Access to Diavolezza area, connections to St. Moritz slopes Cross-Country: Excellent trail networks throughout valley Via Ferrata: Several routes in surrounding mountains

Lower Engadin: Romansh Authenticity

Lower Engadin Overview

Lower Engadin extends from Zernez to Austrian border, preserving Romansh language and traditional culture with fewer tourists and more authentic character than Upper Engadin’s resort development.

Main Towns: Scuol (largest), Guarda (most beautiful village), Tarasp (castle village) Character: Traditional Romansh villages, painted sgraffito houses, agricultural traditions persisting, thermal spas (Scuol), genuine local life Language: Romansh Vallader dialect dominant, German understood, trilingual education

Why Visit: Authentic Graubünden culture, traditional architecture, thermal spas, hiking, significantly fewer tourists, moderate pricing, Romansh language and traditions.

Scuol: Lower Engadin Hub and Spa Town

Population: About 4,600 Character: Valley’s main town, thermal spa destination, services and amenities, authentic Engadin atmosphere Significance: Lower Engadin capital, spa tourism, cultural center

Bogn Engiadina: Modern thermal spa complex, mineral-rich waters, wellness facilities, combination of traditional spa culture and contemporary amenities.

Old Town: Traditional Engadin architecture, painted houses, authentic village character preserved despite spa development.

Best For: Thermal spa enthusiasts, base for Lower Engadin exploration, authentic Romansh culture, budget-friendly Engadin access.

Guarda: Most Beautiful Swiss Village

Population: About 175 Character: Exceptionally preserved Engadin village, painted sgraffito houses, traditional architecture, minimal modern development Significance: Won Wakker Prize (Swiss heritage award), appears on Swiss 100-franc note, model of architectural preservation

Why Visit: Photography (most photogenic Engadin village), architecture enthusiasts, experiencing preserved traditional village, authentic Romansh atmosphere.

Reality: Very small, limited services, best for afternoon visits, requires appreciation for architecture and preservation to fully appreciate.

Tarasp Castle

Medieval castle overlooking Lower Engadin valley, dramatically positioned on hill above villages.

History: 11th-century origins, various owners including Austrian nobility, restored in 20th century Visits: Guided tours available (limited schedule), impressive interior, valley views Photography: Exterior spectacularly photogenic, classic Swiss castle image

Access: Uphill walk from village or car parking, seasonal operation, advance planning required for interior visits.

Swiss National Park: Alpine Wilderness

National Park Overview

Switzerland’s only national park occupies 170 square kilometers of southeastern Graubünden, established 1914 as first Alpine national park, strictly protecting Alpine ecosystem with minimal human intervention philosophy.

Character: Strict nature preserve, no development within park, marked trails only, camping forbidden, dogs forbidden, nature conservation priority Access: Multiple entry points around park perimeter, Zernez houses park center and museum Best Season: June-October, snow closes trails other months

Park Significance

Conservation Philosophy: Strict non-intervention, allowing natural processes, scientific research emphasis Wildlife: Ibex, chamois, golden eagles, marmots, bearded vultures (reintroduced) Landscape: Alpine valleys, forests, high peaks, pristine mountain environment Cultural Value: Demonstrates commitment to nature preservation, educational resource

Visiting the National Park

Trail Network: 80+ kilometers of marked trails, various difficulty levels, all day-hikes (no overnight within park) Regulations: Stay on marked trails, no dogs, no camping, no fires, no picking plants, no disturbing wildlife Park Center: Zernez houses excellent visitor center with natural history exhibits, trail information Guided Tours: Rangers lead educational walks (advance booking), deeper understanding of ecosystem

Best Trails:

• Val Trupchun: Popular wildlife viewing, ibex often visible, moderate difficulty
• Margunet Trail: Panoramic views, varied landscapes, full-day hike
• Macun Lakes: High-altitude lake basin, remote feeling, challenging access

Wildlife Viewing: Early morning and evening best times, binoculars essential, patience required, wildlife follows natural rhythms (not guaranteed sightings).

Assessment: Unique in Switzerland for strict preservation, excellent for nature enthusiasts, requires accepting limitations (no freedom camping, trail restrictions), rewards those interested in observing rather than conquering nature.

Davos: Sports and Conference Town

Davos Overview

Davos occupies high-altitude valley (1,560m) in northern Graubünden, known internationally for World Economic Forum (January) and extensive winter sports infrastructure, combining conference center functions with active resort character.

Population: About 11,000 Character: Large resort town, sports medicine center, conference facilities, year-round activity, less exclusive than St. Moritz Significance: World Economic Forum host, largest Swiss Alpine resort by population, sports and health focus

Reality Check: Davos lacks traditional village charm (elongated development), feels more functional than picturesque, but offers excellent skiing and activities at moderate pricing compared to exclusive resorts.

Davos Activities

Winter Sports: Extensive ski area (Parsenn, Jakobshorn, others), varied terrain, good snow reliability, modern lifts Summer Activities: Hiking, mountain biking, lake swimming (Davosersee), Alpine activities Conferences: World Economic Forum (restricted access), various health and sports medicine conferences Infrastructure: Excellent facilities for all activities, professional instruction available

Jakobshorn: Freeski and snowboard focus, terrain parks, younger crowd Parsenn: Traditional skiing area, connections to Klosters, varied terrain

Klosters: Davos’s Charming Neighbor

Adjacent village offering more traditional character while sharing Davos ski access.

Character: More village atmosphere, upscale without extreme luxury, British royal family associations Advantages: Traditional village charm, quieter than Davos, shared ski area access Reality: More expensive accommodation than Davos but more attractive village setting

Best Strategy: Consider staying in Klosters for atmosphere, accessing Davos facilities as needed.

Arosa: Family-Friendly Mountain Resort

Arosa Overview

High-altitude resort (1,800m) at end of narrow valley, offering family-friendly atmosphere and car-free village center.

Population: About 3,200 Character: Smaller scale than Davos, family-oriented, car-free center, quieter atmosphere Access: Spectacular railway journey from Chur (narrow gorge), limited road access

Why Choose Arosa:

• Family-friendly infrastructure and programming
• More intimate scale than Davos
• Beautiful high-altitude valley setting
• Less expensive than St. Moritz while maintaining quality
• Car-free center reduces traffic concerns

Activities: Skiing (interconnected with Lenzerheide), hiking, lakes (summer swimming), bear sanctuary, family activities.

Southern Valleys: Italian Graubünden

Val Poschiavo: Swiss-Italian Cultural Blend

Valley extending south from Bernina Pass toward Italy, Italian-speaking with distinct cultural character.

Main Town: Poschiavo (charming Italian-style architecture) Character: Mediterranean influences, Italian architecture, milder climate, less touristy Significance: Bernina Express railway route passes through, beautiful landscapes, authentic character

Why Visit: Italian culture within Switzerland, beautiful valley scenery, Bernina Express stop, authentic small-town character, palaces and Mediterranean vegetation.

Lake Poschiavo: Beautiful mountain lake, walking paths, swimming in summer, dramatic setting.

Bregaglia Valley

Remote southwestern valley extending toward Italy, Italian-speaking, dramatic landscapes.

Villages: Promontogno, Soglio (spectacularly positioned), Castasegna Character: Traditional stone architecture, chestnut forests, Italian cultural influences, artistic heritage (Giacometti family origins) Activities: Hiking, cultural exploration, escaping tourist routes

Soglio: Called “gateway to paradise” by painter Giovanni Segantini, dramatically positioned village, exceptional views, peaceful atmosphere.

Best For: Those seeking remote valleys, Italian cultural influences, escaping crowds, authentic village experiences.

Scenic Railways: Graubünden’s Moving Attractions

Glacier Express: “World’s Slowest Express Train”

Famous scenic railway connecting St. Moritz to Zermatt (or vice versa), crossing Graubünden and traveling through multiple Swiss regions.

Graubünden Section: Most dramatic portion, including Landwasser Viaduct, Rhine Gorge, Oberalp Pass Duration: Full journey 8 hours, Graubünden sections shorter Character: Tourist train with panoramic windows, meal service, multilingual commentary

Landwasser Viaduct: Most photographed section, dramatic curved stone viaduct entering tunnel, iconic Swiss railway image.

Assessment: Genuinely scenic route, engineering marvel, expensive but worthwhile for railway enthusiasts and those wanting comprehensive mountain scenery without hiking, regular trains cover same route without panoramic windows or commentary at lower cost.

Bernina Express: Alpine to Mediterranean

Scenic railway connecting Chur to Tirano (Italy) via St. Moritz and Bernina Pass, UNESCO World Heritage route.

Highlights:

• Bernina Pass crossing (2,253m)
• Dramatic elevation changes
• Glaciers and Alpine peaks
• Brusio circular viaduct (spiral to lose altitude)
• Transition from Alpine to Mediterranean vegetation

UNESCO Recognition: Entire route designated World Heritage for engineering and landscape

Assessment: More dramatic than Glacier Express in concentrated section, spectacular Alpine-Mediterranean transition, Italian town of Tirano provides cultural contrast, better value than Glacier Express for scenic railway experience.

Strategy: Take regular train without reservation surcharge (same route, similar views through regular windows), significant cost savings while experiencing same landscapes.

Albula Railway Line

Railway between Chur and St. Moritz, part of Bernina Express route, includes numerous engineering marvels.

Features: 55 tunnels, 196 bridges in 62 kilometers, spiral tunnels gaining altitude, Landwasser Viaduct Significance: Engineering achievement enabling rail access to Engadin, part of UNESCO World Heritage designation Best Experience: Regular trains allow appreciating engineering while traveling, windows adequate for viewing

Romansh Language and Culture

Understanding Romansh

Romansh represents Switzerland’s fourth national language (since 1938), descendant of Vulgar Latin spoken by Roman settlers, surviving only in Graubünden’s isolated valleys.

Statistics: About 60,000 speakers (declining), approximately 0.5% of Swiss population, fragmented into five written dialects plus standardized Rumantsch Grischun Geographic Distribution: Central Graubünden valleys (Surselva, Albula, Engadin), traditional strongholds facing pressure from German Cultural Significance: Unique linguistic heritage, no speakers outside Graubünden area, cultural identity marker

Dialects: Sursilvan, Sutsilvan, Surmiran, Puter, Vallader – mutual intelligibility varies, Rumantsch Grischun created as umbrella standard for official use.

Experiencing Romansh Culture

Villages: Surselva region villages, Guarda, Lower Engadin towns maintain strongest Romansh presence Education: Some valley schools teach in Romansh, bilingual education standard Media: Romansh radio, television, newspapers serve community, Swiss national broadcaster includes Romansh programming Signs: Trilingual or bilingual signage in Romansh areas, place names in Romansh

Cultural Activities: Traditional music, poetry, literature in Romansh, local festivals emphasizing heritage, museums preserving culture.

Reality: Romansh declining despite official protection, German dominant in most contexts, tourism impacts traditional language use, younger generations often more comfortable in German.

Visitor Experience: Few tourists speak Romansh (German and English more useful), but appreciating linguistic diversity and cultural preservation adds depth to valley visits.

Regional Cuisine and Dining

Graubünden Specialties

Bündnerfleisch (Dried Beef): Air-dried beef specialty, thinly sliced, Graubünden’s most famous culinary export Capuns: Chard parcels filled with spätzli dough and dried meat, Romansh specialty Pizzoccheri: Buckwheat noodles (Italian valley influence), related to Valtellina cuisine Pizokel: Buckwheat spätzli with cheese and cabbage (similar to pizzoccheri) Maluns: Grated potato specialty prepared with flour and butter Nusstorte (Engadiner Nusstorte): Caramelized walnut tart, famous Engadin specialty, excellent bakery versions throughout region

Dining Character

Regional Diversity: Germanic influences north, Italian influences south, Romansh traditions central Quality: Generally excellent, Swiss standards throughout, local ingredients emphasized Pricing: St. Moritz extremely expensive, other areas moderate to expensive by Swiss standards, some valleys offer good value Specialization: Bündnerfleisch everywhere, regional dishes in appropriate valleys, Italian cuisine in southern valleys

Restaurant Recommendations

Traditional Graubünden:

• Various restaurants throughout showcasing local specialties
• Hotel dining often excellent, especially in resort areas
• Mountain restaurants ranging from basic huts to sophisticated establishments

Italian Valleys: Authentic Italian cuisine in Poschiavo and Bregaglia, often better value than Germanic Graubünden

St. Moritz: Multiple fine dining options including Michelin-starred restaurants, expect extreme prices

Hiking and Outdoor Activities

Hiking Networks

Graubünden offers over 11,000 kilometers of marked hiking trails, Switzerland’s most extensive network given canton size.

Variety: Valley walks to technical Alpine routes, short afternoon strolls to multi-day expeditions, gentle terrain to exposed scrambles Season: June-October for high routes, year-round for valley trails in milder areas Quality: Excellent maintenance and marking throughout, trail information readily available

Regional Hiking Highlights

Via Albula/Bernina: Multi-day cultural trail following railway route, moderate difficulty, cultural and natural highlights Swiss National Park Trails: Pristine Alpine hiking, wildlife viewing, strict regulations Engadin Valley Trails: High-altitude walking, spectacular Alpine scenery, various difficulty levels Rhine Gorge: Dramatic canyon hiking, unique geological features Italian Valley Routes: Mediterranean-influenced hiking, chestnut forests, village connections

Mountain Activities Beyond Hiking

Mountaineering: Numerous Alpine peaks, Piz Bernina (4,049m) as premier objective, mountain guide services available Via Ferrata: Multiple routes throughout canton, varying difficulty Mountain Biking: Extensive trail networks, lift-assisted downhill options, long-distance routes Rock Climbing: Various areas, traditional and sport climbing

Winter Sports Comprehensive

Major Ski Areas

St. Moritz-Corviglia: Extensive terrain, high altitude, reliable snow, luxury infrastructure Davos-Klosters: Large interconnected area, varied terrain, modern lifts Arosa-Lenzerheide: Family-friendly, varied terrain, good value Diavolezza-Lagalb: High-altitude skiing, glacier access, spectacular scenery

Alternative Winter Activities

Cross-Country Skiing: Extensive trail networks, particularly famous in Engadin (ski marathon route) Snowshoeing: Marked routes throughout, rental equipment widely available Winter Hiking: Prepared trails, spectacular snow-covered landscapes Sledding: Long sled runs from various mountain stations Ice Sports: Curling, ice skating, ice hockey on numerous rinks

Accommodation Strategies

By Location and Budget

St. Moritz: Extreme luxury to expensive, advance booking essential, limited budget options Pontresina/Celerina: More affordable Engadin access, good variety, authentic atmosphere Davos/Arosa: Moderate to expensive, good range of options, family-friendly selections Lower Engadin: Good value, authentic character, moderate pricing Chur: Most affordable, practical base, limited charm but excellent connections Italian Valleys: Good value, authentic experiences, limited selections

Strategic Approaches

Multi-Base: Split stay between resort (St. Moritz region) and traditional valleys for variety Value Strategy: Stay in Chur or Lower Engadin, day trip to expensive areas Resort Experience: Choose Pontresina over St. Moritz for similar access at lower cost Authentic Culture: Lower Engadin or Romansh valleys for traditional experiences

Transportation in Graubünden

Railway Network

Rhaetian Railway (RhB): Comprehensive narrow-gauge network throughout canton, scenic routes, excellent service Main Lines: Chur to St. Moritz, Chur to Davos, Bernina Express route, Glacier Express route through canton Integration: Seamless connections, coordinated schedules, reliable service

Swiss Travel Pass: Covers most Rhaetian Railway routes, discounts on scenic trains, good value for comprehensive exploration.

Road Network and Passes

Major Passes: Julier, Bernina, Albula, Flüela, San Bernardino Seasonal Access: Some passes close in winter (typically November-May), tunnel alternatives available Driving Character: Mountain roads, narrow sections, spectacular scenery, requires confident driving skills

PostBus Network: Comprehensive bus service reaches valleys and villages not served by trains, coordinated with rail schedules.

Getting to Graubünden

By Train:

• Zürich to Chur: 1.5 hours
• Zürich to St. Moritz: 3.5-4 hours
• From other Swiss cities: Good connections via Zürich or Chur

By Car: Various routes from northern Switzerland, Italian access via passes or tunnels

Practical Information and Planning

Language Realities

German: Dominant throughout, understood everywhere, essential for northern valleys Romansh: Limited to specific valleys, locals speak German additionally, no necessity for visitors Italian: Southern valleys, generally bilingual with German English: Understood in tourist areas and resorts, less in remote valleys

Trilingual Signs: Common in Romansh areas, place names may appear in multiple forms, adds cultural interest without communication barriers.

Best Times to Visit

Summer (June-September)

• Pros: All trails accessible, excellent weather, long days, Swiss National Park open, moderate temperatures at altitude
• Cons: Peak season in resorts, higher prices, some areas crowded
• Best For: Hiking, comprehensive exploration, National Park visits

Winter (December-March)

• Pros: Excellent skiing, winter sports variety, festive atmosphere, clear mountain weather
• Cons: Pass closures, limited access to some valleys, expensive in resorts
• Best For: Winter sports, scenic railways with snow coverage

Shoulder Seasons

• Spring (April-May): Variable weather, many high trails still closed, lower prices, fewer tourists
• Fall (October-November): Larch forests golden, comfortable hiking, some facilities closing, good photography

Budget Considerations

Cost Levels:

• St. Moritz: Extreme (Switzerland’s most expensive)
• Other Resorts: Expensive (Davos, Arosa more moderate than St. Moritz)
• Traditional Valleys: Moderate (Lower Engadin, Surselva, Italian valleys)
• Chur: Most affordable urban base

Daily Budget Estimates (per person):

• Budget: CHF 100-150 (Chur or valley accommodation, self-catering, limited activities)
• Mid-Range: CHF 200-350 (moderate hotel, mix of dining, some excursions, avoiding St. Moritz)
• Comfortable: CHF 350-500+ (good accommodation, regular dining, multiple activities, selective resort visits)
• Luxury: CHF 600+ (St. Moritz stays, fine dining, unlimited activities)

Money-Saving Strategies:

• Stay in Chur or Lower Engadin, day trip to expensive areas
• Regular trains instead of panoramic scenic trains (same routes)
• Self-catering in apartments
• Swiss National Park (free entry, nominal parking)
• Hiking (free except transportation)
• Visit St. Moritz for day rather than overnight
• Pontresina instead of St. Moritz for Engadin access

Sample Itineraries

Three Days: Graubünden Highlights

Day 1: Chur arrival, Via Mala or Rhine Gorge exploration Day 2: Bernina Express to St. Moritz, explore Upper Engadin Day 3: Swiss National Park or Lower Engadin traditional villages

Five Days: Comprehensive Canton

Day 1: Chur and immediate surroundings Day 2: St. Moritz and Upper Engadin (Muottas Muragl, lakes) Day 3: Bernina Express to Poschiavo and Italian valleys Day 4: Swiss National Park comprehensive visit Day 5: Davos or Arosa, or Lower Engadin villages (Guarda, Scuol)

Week-Long Exploration

Days 1-2: Chur base, exploring Rhine Gorge, Via Mala, surrounding areas Day 3: Bernina Express journey, St. Moritz arrival Day 4: Upper Engadin comprehensive (Muottas Muragl, Diavolezza, lakes) Day 5: Lower Engadin (Guarda, Tarasp, Scuol thermal baths) Day 6: Swiss National Park full-day hiking Day 7: Italian valleys (Poschiavo, Bregaglia) or northern resorts (Davos, Arosa)

Two-Week Deep Dive

Allows for:

• Multiple base locations (Chur, Engadin, Italian valleys)
• Comprehensive hiking in various valleys
• Swiss National Park extended exploration
• Both scenic railway routes
• Traditional Romansh valley immersion
• Thermal spa experiences
• Weather flexibility for mountain activities
• Cultural exploration of different linguistic regions
• Resort and authentic village contrasts

Photography in Graubünden

Iconic Shots

Landwasser Viaduct: Stone railway bridge, dramatic curved approach into tunnel, winter with snow particularly photogenic Guarda Village: Traditional sgraffito-decorated houses, architectural preservation, appears on 100-franc note Bernina Range: Glaciers and peaks from Diavolezza or Muottas Muragl Rhine Gorge: Dramatic canyon, varied perspectives Lago Bianco: Turquoise glacial lake near Bernina Pass

Photography Tips

Light: High-altitude clear air, dramatic shadows in mountains, golden hour exceptional Seasons: Winter (snow-covered landscapes), fall (golden larches in Engadin), summer (green valleys and flowers) Equipment: Wide-angle for valleys and viaducts, telephoto for peak details and railway shots Railway Photography: Research best vantage points for Landwasser Viaduct and other structures

Best Locations:

• Landwasser Viaduct area (multiple viewpoints)
• Muottas Muragl panoramic perspectives
• Guarda village architecture
• Swiss National Park landscapes (photography permitted on trails)
• Bernina Pass area lakes and glaciers
• Rhine Gorge from various access points

Seasonal Highlights by Activity

Spring (April-May)

• Railway Routes: Scenic trains operating with varied landscapes (snow at altitude, spring in valleys)
• Lower Valleys: Pleasant temperatures, emerging vegetation
• Value Season: Lower accommodation prices, fewer tourists
• Limitations: Many high trails still snow-covered, some mountain facilities not yet open

Summer (June-September)

• Hiking Peak: All trails accessible, optimal conditions
• Swiss National Park: Full season, wildlife viewing best
• Long Days: Maximum daylight for activities
• Weather: Generally stable, warm at altitude, comfortable in valleys
• Full Operations: All lifts, restaurants, facilities operational

Fall (September-October)

• Golden Larches: Engadin’s larch forests turn golden (late September), spectacular photography
• Comfortable Hiking: Ideal temperatures, fewer crowds than summer
• Clear Weather: Often exceptional visibility after summer storms
• Harvest Season: Traditional autumn activities in valleys
• Transition: Some facilities beginning to close, shorter days

Winter (December-March)

• Winter Sports: All ski areas fully operational
• Scenic Railways: Spectacular with snow coverage, winter landscapes
• Clear Mountain Days: Dry climate means frequent sunny conditions
• Thermal Spas: Particularly appealing in snow (Lower Engadin)
• Frozen Lakes: St. Moritz lake activities (horse racing, polo on ice)
• Limitations: Pass closures, limited valley access, short days

Cultural Events and Traditions

Regional Festivals

Chalandamarz (March 1): Romansh spring festival, children’s processions with cowbells driving out winter, particularly strong in Lower Engadin Various Summer Festivals: Traditional music, folk culture, mountain villages throughout Engadin Ski Marathon (March): Major cross-country skiing event, second Sunday of March, 42km race through Engadin Cultural Programming: Classical music festivals (particularly Davos), various cultural events in resort towns

Romansh Cultural Preservation

Language Activities: Romansh theater, poetry, literature, local cultural associations maintaining heritage Museums: Various locations preserving traditional culture, explaining Romansh history Education: Bilingual schools in Romansh valleys, language teaching efforts Broadcasting: Romansh radio and television programming, Swiss national broadcaster support

Visitor Experience: Attending local festivals provides insight into living culture, museum visits offer context for language and traditions, respectful engagement with heritage appreciated.

Family-Friendly Graubünden

Arosa: Bear sanctuary, family programming, manageable ski area, lakes in summer Flims-Laax: Family ski area, lake swimming (Caumasee), forest rope courses Swiss National Park: Educational trails, wildlife viewing appeals to children, ranger programs Scenic Railways: Train journeys entertaining for families, varied landscapes Various Playgrounds: Mountain villages maintain community facilities Swimming Lakes: Numerous Alpine lakes with summer swimming (St. Moritz, Davos, Silvaplana, others) Sled Runs: Winter sledding from various mountain stations Easy Hiking: Valley trails suitable for families throughout region

Family Strategies:

• Choose family-oriented resorts (Arosa, Flims-Laax) over exclusive areas
• Mix active days with leisure (swimming, playgrounds)
• Scenic railways provide engaging travel experiences
• National Park offers educational nature experiences
• Consider apartments for flexibility and cost savings

Sustainable and Responsible Tourism

Environmental Considerations

Swiss National Park: Model of strict nature preservation, educational resource Public Transport: Excellent railway and bus networks reduce car dependency Trail Infrastructure: Well-maintained trails minimize environmental impact Regional Products: Emphasis on local food and craft production

Cultural Respect

Romansh Language: Appreciate linguistic diversity, respect cultural preservation efforts Traditional Villages: Understand architectural heritage, respect private property Local Traditions: Engage respectfully with cultural practices and festivals Economic Support: Choose local businesses, support regional economy

Responsible Practices

Stay on Trails: Particularly important in National Park and sensitive areas Waste Management: Pack out all trash, use designated facilities Wildlife Distance: Observe without disturbing, particularly in National Park Seasonal Awareness: Visit during shoulder seasons to reduce infrastructure pressure

Lesser-Known Gems

Savognin: Traditional Romansh village, good hiking, authentic character, fewer tourists Avers Valley: Highest permanently inhabited valley in Europe, remote, spectacular Albula Pass: Less famous than Bernina but equally scenic, historic route Greina High Plateau: Remote wilderness hiking, pristine Alpine environment Various Romansh Villages: Countless small villages preserving traditional character with minimal tourism

Value of Exploring Beyond Famous: Authentic cultural experiences, virtually no crowds, genuine local interactions, better value, photographic opportunities, supporting less-touristed communities.

Connecting Graubünden to Broader Swiss Travel

As Diverse Regional Experience

Graubünden demonstrates Switzerland’s linguistic and cultural diversity within single canton, providing multiple Swiss experiences without changing regions.

Multi-Region Combinations:

• Alpine Grand Tour: Graubünden + Valais + Bernese Oberland (comprehensive Swiss Alps)
• Scenic Railway Journey: Graubünden railways + Ticino (Bernina Express connects)
• Linguistic Tour: Graubünden (trilingual) + other language regions for cultural contrast
• Eastern Switzerland: Combine with Zürich region, Rhine Valley, Liechtenstein

Transportation Connections

From Zürich: 1.5-4 hours depending on Graubünden destination From St. Moritz to Ticino: Bernina Express provides dramatic connection From Graubünden to Valais: Glacier Express crosses regions Italy Access: Bernina Pass and other routes enable easy Italian excursions

Border Advantages

Italian Proximity: Easy day trips, cultural contrasts, Tirano shopping Austrian Border: Eastern valleys connect to Austria, Liechtenstein nearby Pass Routes: Multiple connections to other Swiss regions and countries

Business and Conference Context

Davos: World Economic Forum (January), various health and sports conferences, medical tourism St. Moritz: Luxury corporate events, incentive travel destination Facilities: Excellent conference infrastructure in major resorts, professional services

Leisure Extensions: Business travelers can easily extend for personal time, Graubünden’s variety suits different interests, quality infrastructure supports mixed business-leisure trips.

Key Takeaways

Graubünden rewards travelers willing to look beyond St. Moritz’s famous name to discover Switzerland’s most diverse canton. While St. Moritz delivers on luxury resort experience for those with appropriate budgets, the canton’s genuine character emerges in Romansh villages preserving linguistic heritage found nowhere else, Italian-influenced valleys bringing Mediterranean warmth to Alpine settings, pristine wilderness of Swiss National Park, traditional communities maintaining agricultural rhythms alongside tourism, and countless valleys offering authentic Swiss experiences at moderate prices away from exclusive resort atmospheres.

Success in Graubünden means accepting the canton’s scale and diversity rather than expecting to see everything quickly. Choose between comprehensive but superficial touring or deeper immersion in selected valleys. The scenic railways (Glacier Express, Bernina Express) provide spectacular overviews but shouldn’t substitute for stopping to explore valleys along the routes. Traditional villages reveal their character to visitors who take time to wander, appreciate architecture, engage with local culture, and understand the pressures facing Romansh language preservation.

Budget strategically based on priorities – St. Moritz demands extreme resources but delivers corresponding luxury, while Lower Engadin, Surselva, Italian valleys, and traditional communities offer authentic Graubünden experiences at significantly lower costs. Chur serves as practical base enabling comprehensive exploration without resort pricing, though lacking atmospheric charm of mountain valleys. The canton rewards flexible planning that allows discovering unexpected villages, adjusting for weather, and following interests rather than rigid itineraries.

Most importantly, understand that Graubünden’s trilingual reality isn’t administrative curiosity but reflects genuine cultural diversity within remarkably compact geography. Germanic valleys differ fundamentally from Italian-influenced regions, while Romansh communities maintain distinct identity between these poles. This diversity means Graubünden provides multiple Swiss experiences – Germanic Alpine traditions, Italian cultural influences, unique Romansh heritage, exclusive luxury resorts, pristine wilderness preservation, and authentic mountain communities – all within single canton requiring travelers to choose what aspects interest them most rather than attempting comprehensive coverage in limited time.

The canton’s independent spirit, reflected in its historical Free State status and contemporary cultural preservation efforts, manifests in strong local identities throughout valleys that maintain distinct characters despite modern connectivity. Appreciating this independence and diversity transforms Graubünden from challenging logistics puzzle into fascinating exploration of how cultural variety, linguistic diversity, and environmental preservation coexist within Switzerland’s largest canton, offering experiences ranging from ultimate Alpine luxury to undiscovered valleys where traditional ways persist largely unchanged despite the modern world pressing at valley entrances.